Pisco Sour: a childish feud between Peru and Chile?

After discovering Guacamole, we’re back on South American soil to discover the origins of our new recipe: Pisco Sour!

A refreshing cocktail made with Pisco, lime and egg white, Pisco Sour can be enjoyed in a variety of ways! Whether you’re relaxing on a Chilean beach in the evening, or lost in a small Peruvian bar nestled in the heart of a mountain, you’ll be seduced by the sweetness of this beverage.

But while the good vibes that accompany the tasting of this cocktail are universal, the origin of Pisco, the main component of this drink, is a real bone of contention between the Chilean and Peruvian peoples. Both countries lay claim to its creation, its name, but also to the way in which it is made.

To understand the origins of Pisco Sour, delve into the history of an alcohol that divides two populations, against a backdrop of Spanish Conquistadors and surprising anecdotes.

The origins of Pisco

Wine, the origin of Pisco?

Although Pisco is a spirit generally enjoyed between 35° and 45°, it would seem that it owes its appearance to a much lighter spirit much appreciated by the French: wine.

In fact, it was in the middle of the 16th century that the Spanish conquistadors imported viticulture throughout Latin America. The populations already present soon began producing their own wine, which turned out to be of excellent quality.

Such was the quality, in fact, that the Spaniards themselves ended up importing Peruvian wine into their own country. An unacceptable situation for King Felipe II of Spain, who ordered a ban on wine production in Latin America.

This was an opportunity for the South Americans to try out new ways of vinifying, distilling, reducing and ageing grapes, until finally creating a grape-based brandy that would take the name Pisco a few decades later.

The origin of the appellation

Two hypotheses have been put forward to explain the name « Pisco ». The first is the simplest. Pisco takes its name from the port from which it has been exported for several centuries. This port is located some 300km south of Lima, and takes its name from the small birds called « Pisscu« , which fly over the valley in abundance.

A second, more legendary but equally probable hypothesis also exists. Over 2,000 years ago, the Paracas people lived in what is now the Pisco Valley. A people of great renown, particularly for the ceramics they produced. And the potters who worked these ceramics were themselves called « piskos ».

Used from then on to transport all kinds of liquids and beverages, the pottery in turn took on the name of piskos. Grape brandy was transported in these jars, which eventually became impregnated with its aroma. So, by shortening, the spirit transported came to be called « piskos », later becoming Pisco.

Chile or Peru, the Pisco war

The first important point to note in order to better understand the conflict surrounding the « paternity » of Pisco, is that both countries have proclaimed Pisco Sour as their national drink. And of course, this rivalry is not just a war of cultural pride, it’s also a real economic battle.

Explanation of the differences between Chile and Peru regarding the origins of Pisco.

Historic opposition

The first point on which Peru and Chile cannot agree concerns the age of Pisco. In their view, whichever of the two countries started producing the spirit can claim to be the sole supplier.

So the hunt for historical information rages on. And in this common hunt, Chile seems to have gained a slight, rather unexpected advantage. Recent discoveries in 18th-century archives suggest that Chile is the « father » of Pisco.

It was Argentinean Pablo Lacoste who, while digging through the Chilean national archives, came across a decisive text dating back to 1733. The document irrefutably confirms that the first use of the term « Pisco » can be attributed to a Chilean governor, Marcelino Rodríguez Guerrero, who bequeathed « 3 jars of Pisco » in his will.

In response to this, the Peruvians in turn countered with a document from their own national archives. A new testament, dated 1613, on which is mentioned « l’aguardiente de Pisco », Pisco brandy.

The only problem is that Pisco is the region in which the brandy is produced, and there’s no evidence that this is the specific name given to the spirit.

An economic conflict

But beyond this historic-nationalist battle, it’s above all an economic conflict that pits the two countries against each other in the Pisco war. And when it comes to the production and consumption of this beverage, the Chileans are far ahead of the Peruvians.

In fact, Chile produces over 36 million liters of Pisco every year, while Peru produces just 9 million. Peru consumes only 0.22 liters of Pisco per year, 10 times less than its Chilean neighbor!

On the international front, however, things are getting tougher for Chilean Pisco, and the competition is fierce. On the South American continent, for example, all countries import only Peruvian Pisco. In the United States and the European Union, the situation is confusing. While Chilean and Peruvian Pisco are authorized, only Pisco (the Peruvian valley) is recognized as an indicator of geographical origin.

An anecdotal battle?

As you can see, the war between Chile and Peru over Pisco is not about to end. Worse still, the conflict seems to be turning into a bi-national feud and is gaining momentum.

Chilean TV presenter Christian Pino was one of them. During an interview with a Peruvian Pisco producer, the journalist referred live on TV to « Pisco Peruano », or Peruvian Pisco. A term absolutely forbidden in Chile, which recognizes as Pisco only that produced on its territory.

Christian Pino was fired by his employer the very next day, under pressure from the Chilean pisco producers’ association. The journalist was accused of « betraying his mission to inform the Chilean people ».

Although Chile does not recognize « Peruvian Pisco » in any way, and the term even seems to be a blasphemy, the country is nonetheless… the world’s biggest importer! Even if, of course, it’s sold under a different name.

The Pisco Sour

After all these tensions and rivalries, a glass of Pisco Sour would be welcome. Refreshing and lemony, it’s one of the cocktails that symbolize sunshine, vacations and relaxation…

But of course, once again, Chile and Peru are fighting over who gets the recipe.

The birth of the cocktail

Peruvians believe the cocktail’s first recipe dates back to the 1920s. An American bartender named Victor Vaughen Morris settled in Lima, Peru, where he submitted his first recipe, mixing the local spirit, Pisco, with lemon and sugar syrup. A few months later, after the service, one of his colleagues added egg white for the foam and angostura for the color.

For the Chileans, it was Eliott Stubb, an English sailor working on a ship called Sunshine, who invented this cocktail with the elements present on the ship, which was sailing along the Chilean coast. The Chilean sailors on board then brought the recipe to Chile.

In fact, Chile was the first country to market Pisco Sour directly bottled and distributed on a large scale, subject to a number of regulations. The first, of course, is to be concocted with Chilean Pisco.

Our Canadian recipe for Pisco Sour

For this recipe, it’s hard to decide between Chilean and Peruvian Pisco… so we made the brave choice… not to decide! So that no one is left out, we’ve concocted two recipes that are similar in every way. One will be made with Peruvian Pisco, the other with Chilean Pisco.

To make it even more original, we’re adding a surprise element… Also from the American continent, we’re using the sweetness of maple syrup to replace the sugar syrup we usually use.

The ingredients

• 5 cl Pisco (Peruvian or Chilean)
• 3 cl lime
• 2 cl maple syrup
• 1 egg white
• A few drops of bitter angostura

The stages

• Beat egg white until stiff
• Pour into a shaker
• Add the Pisco, lime juice and maple syrup.
• Mix well
• Add a little crushed ice and mix again.
• Pour into individual glasses
• Add a few drops of bitter angostura to the mousse
• Enjoy well chilled