Wagah: a surprising ceremony at the only land border crossing between India and Pakistan
When we think of India, we think of colors, spices, the beauty of women dressed in sparkling Saris, but also of a culturally and geographically rich country. A country that never ceases to amaze travelers, an India that’s nicknamed « incredible »! Incredible is the word that defines the closing ceremony between the Indian and Pakistani borders.
It all began in 1947, when the village of Wagah was cut in two to form the only border post between the two countries. Located some 30 km fromAmritsar, in northern Punjab, a martial ceremony has been held here every evening for over 60 years.
Attending one of the daily ceremonies means a great deal to many Indians who have come to help the army. Many tourists in the region are also keen to come and watch the amazing spectacle!
Imagine a border post, with bleachers on either side of it, filled with cheering spectators, patriotic chants, soldiers with bulging torsos, frowning eyebrows and, last but not least, entertainers who had come to put on a show! A euphoric crowd, proud to represent their respective countries. Yes, even if the Indian stands are much fuller, the Pakistanis don’t give up and perform the parade with dignity.
Soldiers in official dress parade for 45 minutes like real roosters to intimidate the country opposite. The soldiers respond to the orders of their officers with a display of boots and guards, a rather astonishing display for us Europeans.
A show-stopping atmosphere, a euphoric audience, an official ceremony more akin to the madness of a soccer stadium!
Once the handshakes had been exchanged between the soldiers of the two countries and the flags lowered, the public could in turn celebrate and shout their pride from the center of the stands! The slogans « Hindustan zindabab » (« long live India »), resounded among all the Indian supporters who had come to let off steam to the rhythms of Bollywood! The soldiers of each country play along, letting themselves be photographed alone, or taking souvenir photos with the supporters.
At 6.30pm, the small border post at Wagah is declared closed, and will open at dawn the following morning! DVDs, CDs, flags and other souvenirs are on sale in the vicinity of the ceremony! When you’re in Amritsar, don’t miss this closing ceremony, which shows a completely different side of India than you might imagine! The frenzy of the frenzied crowd is sure to sweep you off your feet!
Photo credit: Flickr – Guilhem Vellut
Photo credit: Flickr – Sean Ellis
Photo credit: Flickr – Stefan Krasowski
Main photo credit: Flickr – Adam Jones