In the footsteps of Jacques Cartier: the second voyage (2/3)

After discovering a new land, Canada, Jacques Cartier returns a year later to continue his mission. Will he find the passage to Asia?

After his discovery of the Canadian coast and the Gaspé Peninsula, Jacques Cartier returned to France. But the explorer from Saint-Malo had only one thing on his mind: to set out once again to explore the St. Lawrence River a little further. As for us, our exploration is only just beginning. We need to recover quickly from all these emotions and discoveries, because what’s to come bodes well for the future!

After following in the footsteps of Jacques Cartier’s first voyage, it’s time to follow in the footsteps of his second, whose route is totally dictated by the St. Lawrence. No longer on the Atlantic seaboard, we’re about to enter the heart of Quebec.

If you missed it, find the first episode of the trilogy on Jacques Cartier

The Saguenay gold rush

Remember: at the end of our first installment, Jacques Cartier and his crew returned to France with two hostages. The navigator had trapped two young Micmacs, including the son of Chief Donnaconna. This gesture was by no means a spur-of-the-moment gesture. Cartier had an ulterior motive: to teach them French so that they could show him where the riches of these lands could be found.

And his plan works perfectly, to say the least, as the young Amerindians tell him of a land filled with precious stones and gold. A kingdom called the Saguenay.

This information was obviously passed on to King François I, who needed to hear no more to give the Breton the green light. However, preparations for this second voyage differed from the first. The resources on board were far more numerous. We’re no longer talking about a 4-month voyage…but a year!

On May 29, 1535, three ships (« L’Émerillon », « La grande Hermine » and « La petite Hermine ») left the port of Saint-Malo. By September 14, the crew had already managed to retrace the footsteps of the first voyage, mainly to Anticosti Island and the Gaspé Peninsula. However, time was of the essence for our explorer, who found himself in the waters of the St. Lawrence.

Hochelaga and the winter of the Far North

Native anxiety

This is where our journey continues. For this second part, we’re in the heart of the province of Quebec (on the first lands of New France), where we’ll be following the river. An opportunity to discover a whole host of fantastic new landscapes. So many, in fact, that stopping anywhere would take years.

That’s why we’ve chosen to bring you the most beautiful ports of call on this journey. At the end of the summer of 1535, Cartier decided to continue his epic voyage. The goal? To go as far as possible. Cartier knew he was on a river, so finding his bearings would be easy. His first port of call was Stadaconé. If the name doesn’t ring a bell, the name of its chief, Donnaconna, probably does. Yes, this is the man whose son he has!

True to form, Jacques Cartier took the opportunity to show his strength against the Iroquois by firing his cannons. The intimidation worked, as the French presence was clearly a source of concern to the tribes. Nevertheless, the navigator plays the politician and tries to reassure (actually deceive) the locals about his intentions. To back up his words, he releases the hostages he used in France.

He also took the opportunity to haggle, which pleased the Amerindians. His attitude shows that Cartier will do anything to bring wealth home, but also to make history, whatever the cost.

Hochelaga and Mount Royal

Guns stowed, negotiations done, no time to lose. After all, Saint-Laurent is waiting. Cartier set sail again. In fact, as we make our way along the water, we may well come across those « big strange white fish » once unknown to Europeans: the beluga.

Whatever the case, the river’s banks are exceptional. A majestic natural setting that charms all who venture there, thanks to its autumn colors. Cartier drops anchor at Lac Saint-Pierre: new stopover, new treasures. Here, flora and fauna invite you to discover an extraordinary world, much like the Parc Régional des Grèves and its centuries-old pine forests. You can see them, those little Canada Geese, the herons or the Colicous singing and moving from tree to tree or flying over the water…

The setting is idyllic. To make the most of it, let’s be silent, close our eyes and listen to the gentle melody of nature. Escape guaranteed.

Once we’d set off again, and after many miles of navigation, including the Rivière des Prairies, we arrived at our destination. The first major stage of our adventure lies before us, just as Jacques Cartier did almost 500 years ago. The ships drop anchor in front of the Iroquois village of Hochelaga. Surrounded by a circular wooden palisade, it houses longhouses, also clad in wood.

After a few contacts between Europeans and natives, Jacques Cartier set off to scout the area. As soon as he arrived, he spotted a mountain overlooking the village and surrounding area, which he christened Mont-Royal. Yes, the famous one. The one whose name echoes the many riches it has to offer. The one that would later give its name to the city: Montreal.

Like our ancestor, let’s climb to the summit, from where we can look out over the plain and the St. Lawrence. But unlike the Malouin, in addition to nature, we can also contemplate the human work of the 20th century: the Montreal skyline. What’s more, its presence doesn’t prevent us from detecting the Lachine Rapids, a river passage that once worried Cartier and his men.

For our part, let’s put our worries to one side and take full advantage of Mount Royal, a veritable concentrate of Canadian geology: a plain-like plateau, a summit, a lake and, above all, lush vegetation. It’s this fascination that will keep us buzzing throughout our stopover.

On his arrival, long before our time, Cartier saw only a plain and a hill, but the place amazed him:  » This land is the most beautiful it is possible to see« . That’s saying a lot. And when we see what has become of these plains, we realize that the navigator was right.

Before setting off again, let’s climb back to the top of Mount Royal after dark. The skyline, already beautiful by day, is even more so at dusk. Whether you’re a fan of urban environments or not, it’s hard not to be charmed.

Winter, the French enemy

But let’s return to these famous rapids, whose presence establishes a fact: nowadays, as a few centuries ago, it’s impossible to navigate these rapids. A real blow for the French. So they had to spend the winter in Hochelaga. A harsh, very cold winter. By mid-November, ships were blocked by icy waters. Gradually, the land turned white and temperatures plummeted.

The situation is harsh for the Westerners. Worse still, a disease was beginning to affect the crew: scurvy. It gradually decimated the French. In all, twenty-five companions died. Jacques Cartier, powerless, asked the Iroquois for help. And with good reason: the Iroquois were also victims of the plague, and yet they managed to recover. Hesitant at first, the Iroquois finally agreed to help the Europeans by offering them a secret beverage.

Today, Montreal winters are still just as impressive. Nevertheless, the descendants of our settlers have managed to adapt to this extreme climate. What’s more, visiting Quebec’s largest city at this time of year is an enchanting experience. Skating rinks, ice slides, poutine tasting or ice hockey on a frozen lake… it’s easy to forget the harshness of the season! The air may be cold, but the welcome is warm.

Back to Stadacona

Direction France

Following the terrible winter for which the French were ill-prepared, Jacques Cartier decided to turn back. But before crossing the Atlantic, the Malouin wanted to stop again at Stadacona. No sooner had he dropped anchor than he ordered his troops to build a pile fort not far from the Iroquois village on the banks of the Saint-Charles River. Our ancestors discovered this village, populated by 50 inhabitants. They also took advantage of the opportunity to discover the Amerindian way of life, and the food resources they used: squash, corn and beans.

But if Cartier stopped off at Stadacona, it wasn’t just to talk to the natives, who in reality he couldn’t care less about. François I’s envoy was interested in the land, which would be ideal for settlement. For us, it’s an opportunity to discover one of the most beautiful stretches of the St. Lawrence.

Today, the former Iroquois village and its surroundings have been transformed into a metropolis, but the riverbanks remain as charming as ever. A stroll along the Plains of Abraham, leading to Cap Blanc, is a must if you want to walk along the river. It’s fortunate that such a green setting preserves the panorama and the riverbanks. The funicular also allows us to admire Quebec City and the St. Lawrence from above, adding a touch of magic to our adventure.

Then it’s on to the Iroquois village, now the Cartier-Brébeuf historic site. Despite colonization and land appropriation, the descendants of the settlers did not wish to build here. As a result, a park now stands where Donnaconna and his kind once lived.

Jacques Cartier, the manipulator

For Jacques Cartier, despite the beauty of the area, tourism had no place. His voyage was a failure. He was unable to sail to the end of the St. Lawrence, and would not have time to find the Kingdom of Saguenay. As a result, he didn’t discover the passage to Asia, or the famous gold.

His credibility with the king was at risk. However, as cunning as he was, Cartier played his last card: the Iroquois. The navigator invites the locals to a great feast, to celebrate his return to France and thank them for their help. He also promised Chief Donnaconna a big surprise. The tribe comes to feast with the French, before the celebration turns into a nightmare.

Indeed, Jacques Cartier orders his men to kidnap Donnaconna, her two sons, a little girl and three other chiefs. Once again, Jacques Cartier has abused the trust placed in him. All so that the Amerindians could once again bear witness to the Saguenay’s riches, but also to its scurvy and winter conditions. But for the Iroquois, the passage to France will not be a smooth one…

To top it all off, just before leaving on May 3, the Malouin had a cross installed. He returned to Saint-Malo on July 16, 1536. But as soon as he arrived, he had only one thing on his mind: to return to New France for a third time.

For us, sailing back to France is not yet on the agenda. We’re staying in Quebec City, to continue the adventure. So, to find out how our great expedition ends, we’ll be back in… our third and final instalment! And because we want to finish on a high note, let’s leave Jacques Cartier’s footsteps for a moment, to contemplate the Montmorency Falls.

See you soon!

Continue your adventure in the footsteps of Jacques Cartier with Episode 3