Would you like to visit Corsica and its mountains? Then discover 8 magnificent climbing spots in Corsica!
With its fantastic mountains and cliffs, Corsica is undoubtedly a superb climbing destination! Already known as a canyoning paradise, the island is increasingly establishing itself as France’s climbing paradise. And it has everything it takes. First of all, Corsica offers a wide variety of rock types and route shapes, from the coastal regions to the high mountains. The most famous are the tafoni, granite formations resulting from a honeycomb erosion from the inside out, specific to Corsica. Climbing the tafoni is particularly fascinating!
These dreamy settings are complemented by a benevolent climate. Climbers can climb in all seasons, as long as they choose their altitude and orientation carefully. To top it all off, almost all the island’s sites are under-frequented compared with those on the mainland! Not sure where to practice your passion on the Isle of Beauty? To help you in your sporting adventures, we’ve listed 8 superb places to climb in Corsica. All that’s left to do is get your gear and discover these exceptional routes and sites!
1. The Col de Bavella
- You can follow the D268 from Solenzara or the D368 from Porto-Vecchio.
- At the pass, you’ll find a large parking area. From here, a well-marked path takes you to the first rocks in about ten minutes!
- As for the period, we recommend the shoulder seasons, but summer can also be suitable.
Located in the Bavella massif, this old climbing spot is known as one of the most beautiful places to climb in Corsica. Its mountains are covered with splendid lichen-covered red granite needles and walls covered with magnificent tafoni. It’s all part of a breathtaking, exotic backdrop, enhanced by fog and hanging pine trees! The rocks of the Col de Bavella form Corsica’s most famous climbing area.
Here you’ll find around a hundred routes. Grades range from 3c to 7c. Most routes are also between 15 and 25 meters high.
2. Gorges de la Restonica
- Follow the D623 from Corte into the Restonica valley
- he climbing spots are indicated on the road by a sign.
In this beautiful valley near Corte, you’ll find numerous climbing areas for all levels. Indeed, the beautiful river Restonica has carved out an anthology of reliefs in the compact granite of the Cortenese mountains. You’d almost think they were designed to be climbed! With its maritime pines, typical rocks, waterfalls and natural pools, the Restonica site is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places to climb in Corsica.
First site
The first are two kilometers along the main road. The rock to climb is right on the road. On this first spot, you’ll find around forty routes with grades ranging from 4b to 7b.
Second site
Two kilometers further on, you’ll find a second site near a parking lot. A well-marked path leads to the site’s 40 routes. They range from 4b to 8a.
Third site
Finally, you’ll find the last site six kilometers further on, behind the valley. Here you’ll find a dozen routes ranging from 6c to 8a. This is the most difficult sector of the Valley!
It’s worth noting that all the rocks to be climbed are close to the river. After a good climbing session, you can cool off in the crystal-clear waters of the Restonica.
3. La Punta di Capineru
- Go to Pianottoli-Caldarello
- Take the road to San Giovanni beach. Parking is available on site.
- Take the track through the scrubland to Punta di Capineru
Located in southern Corsica, Punta di Capineru is just a short distance from Pianottoli-Caldarello, near Bonifacio. This beautiful kilometre-long spit of land juts out into the blue sea. A single track leads to this exceptional climbing site. At Punta di Capineru, fantastic granite balls await you. Looming everywhere, these clusters of boulders are the stuff of dreams for budding climbers! Each one has its own interesting features and passages: smooth walls, holes or alveoli.
Grades range from 3a to 7c+, depending on the boulders. Some are very easy, with walls of 4 to 5 meters. Others are quite challenging! The Punta di Capinaru is all about incredible bouldering in a dream setting: sea, tranquillity, sport and idleness. All in all, it’s definitely one of the best places to climb in Corsica!
4. Sacred Earth
- Follow the D11 towards the Iles Sanguinaires
- At the beach, turn right onto the D111b, then right again onto the track 300 metres further on.
- You can park your car on a large surface
Terre Sacrée beach is one ofAjaccio‘s best-known beaches. Every summer, it attracts numerous holidaymakers in search of translucent water and white sand. The setting is a dream, with Monte Rosso overlooking the beach and the Gulf of Ajaccio stretching out to the horizon. While the beach is fairly well known, the nearby climbing spot is much less so.
From the parking lot, a track leads up to the summit of Monte Rosso. A fifteen-minute walk will take you to this magnificent climbing spot. There are some twenty routes ranging from 10 to 20 meters in height. Grades range from 4b to 7c. From these heights, you’ll enjoy an incredible view of the Gulf of Ajaccio. Later, you can cool off on the beautiful Terres Sacrées beach!
5. Valdu Di Saltu
- From Ajaccio or Propriano, follow the N196 to Petreto-Bicchisano.
- Follow a track from the D757
- At « Croce« , you should see an oratory with a Madonna. Parking is available nearby.
Situated between Ajaccio and Propiano, Valdu di Saltu is a new and fast-developing bouldering site. It’s the island’s biggest bouldering spot. Its immense potential makes it one of the best places to climb in Corsica. Here you’ll find beautiful granite boulders carpeted in undergrowth.
Grades here range from 4c to 7b for two or even three hundred routes! As the site is still evolving, harder grades should appear over the years. As with all climbing spots in Corsica, the site’s bucolic charm is particularly noteworthy: shadows, tranquillity, paths and scrubland.
It’s worth noting that the spot is child-friendly. In fact, the foot of the boulders is not very dangerous and is well suited to young climbers.
6. Porto
- Follow the D81 towards Piana from the village center
- Five hundred metres further on, turn right and follow a small road down to the beach.
- Once you’ve parked your car, walk to the southern end of the beach to access the climbing site.
The village of Porto, in the gulf of the same name, is home to some exceptional climbing spots!
Here you’ll find around twenty routes ranging from 3 to 7a. They range in height from 8 to 15 meters. After your sporting sessions, you can also cool off in the nearby sea. For this reason, and because the simpler routes are ideal for children, this is one of the best places to climb in Corsica when traveling with the family!
7. Bussaglia
- Follow the D81 from Porto towards Calvi
- After about 6 kilometers, turn left towards Plage de Bussaglia, which is normally well signposted.
Not far from the Porto spots is another excellent climbing spot! At the south-eastern end of Bussaglia beach, you can discover some thirty routes ranging from 3 to 7b. Measuring 10 to 20 metres in height, these rock climbs are also ideal for families! Here, too, you’ll find proximity to the beach and routes suitable for children.
8. Saint-Florent
- Take the D81 from Bastia
- The spots are located between Saint-Florent and Patrimonio, in the narrowing of the two walls, about 2 kilometers from each other.
- The sectors can then be reached via footpaths.
In the bay of Saint-Florent, at the end of the gulf of the same name, you’ll find several climbing sectors with high grades. In fact, there are some big overhangs here, reserved for elite climbers! On these limestone bars, grades range from 6c to 8b.
In the Strutta gorge, climbers will find some very difficult routes on overhanging bars. Other, less difficult routes are located in both sectors near the river.
What are your favourite climbing spots in Corsica?